Stop at Surprising Kolding
Kolding seen over the Castle Lake
“Surprise is the greatest gift which life can give us.” – Boris Pasternak
The Danish town of Kolding doesn’t stand out among the country’s long list of significant and ancient market towns. Yet, this medieval market town has a landmark that does attract domestic visitors and should also be a magnet for foreign travelers, who will be in for a pleasant surprise. Dating from the second half of the 11th century, Kolding is quite centrally located on the Jutland Peninsula and in Denmark, which shaped its development through trade, handcrafts, and shipping. The surrounding hilly landscape is unusual for this mostly flat country, so the town sits protected near a lake and in a tunnel-like valley on the banks of the Kolding River, just before the river flows into the fjord. It is all this water that gave the town its name, which means “the cold water”.
From the mid-13th century, the Kolding River formed the border between The Danish Kingdom and the southern Duchy of Schleswig. To defend that border required building the awe-inspiring Koldinghus in the mid-1200s on a strategic perch on Castle Hill just north of the river. During the Middle Ages, Kolding was hit by numerous wars and plagues that decimated the population and reduced trade and the town’s corresponding status. But because of the mighty castle, the townfolk witnessed countless significant events, including numerous treaties made and broken between warring parties and jealous royals or noble family members.
The massive fortress-like castle eventually became a residence for the Danish kings, lending prestige to the town, attracting nobility, and providing work for the citizenry. Most prominently, Christian IV spent some of his childhood here and went on to be the longest-reigning monarch in Danish history. Koldinghus burned in 1808 when Spanish troops were lodged here during the Napoleonic Wars, and it sat long in a state of ruin. Now a historic museum with a knight’s hall, chapel, and library, the structure is secured with modern interior fittings that contrast beautifully with the 750-year-old brick walls. Special exhibitions related to the Royal Family are periodically staged within the ancient structure, which lends remarkable authenticity.
In the immediately adjacent town, cobbled pedestrian streets, and a variety of shops, restaurants, and cafes give way to charming squares. The largest of Kolding’s squares is the historic marketplace, and the 12th-century Sankt Nicolai Church dominates another smaller square. Behind the town’s oldest half-timbered house at number 18 Holly Cross Street, a back courtyard hides the Citizen’s Garden, a pretty flower garden that has provided a quiet respite for residents and visitors since the 1930s. Historic buildings in Kolding, including the richly decorated, grand renaissance home and apothecary, Borch’s House, make a fitting backdrop for a place now nationally known for design and architecture through the design school and because of the city’s strict architectural planning guidelines.
Out on the water, there is ample opportunity for aquatic activity. Along a green belt by the river, there are biking paths as well as canoe and kayak rental spots. It’s possible to paddle on the river straight into the town center. Nearby, a hundred-year-old hydropower plant, Harteverke, now houses a museum dedicated to experiential teaching about water energy while simultaneously producing electricity for the city’s street lighting. Out on the fjord, numerous sandy beaches are close at hand, as are two sailing marinas.
Don’t miss:
Visiting the fascinating 750-year-old Koldinghus.
Serendipity:
Needed rest stop- On the way to the historic district, finding cafés and restaurants, with outdoor seating, in the former industrial area at the river’s edge, for an afternoon respite.
Lunch Tip:
Madkælderen in the basement of the castle for an excellent traditional Danish lunch.
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D3100 or iPhone 8.*