Malmö merits a visit
Malmö, old and new
“True merit, like a river, the deeper it runs, the less noise it makes.” – Edward F. Halifax
The southern Swedish city of Malmö began life before 1275 AD merely as a quay for the Archbishop of Lund who needed to sail across the straight to Copenhagen. In time, it became a medieval marketplace for the Hanseatic League when herring fishing flourished in the surrounding waters, and it remained Denmark’s second-largest city and one of the most visited for centuries. Part of Sweden since 1658, Malmö now lies far away from its own capital city and close to that of another country, so it tends to be forgotten by both and forgotten by travelers as well.
While Malmö’s cityscape is a seamless blend of old and modern, the ancient does stand out. The Gothic St. Petri Church greets visitors with 700 years of history. Conversion to Lutheranism came early but not peacefully, so the church suffered the destruction of numerous altarpieces, and its interior was whitewashed, though some dramatic feudal scenes have been recovered. Defended by an island fortress near the beach and surrounded by canals, the city was the region’s most fortified, and now the Renaissance Malmö castle houses the art and history museums. Stortorget, the oldest market square in the heart of the city was created in the 1540s, dominated then and now by the old Town Hall with its beautiful Renaissance façade and the restaurant under the cellar vaults, which still serves guests in medieval surroundings. Nearby, Lilla Torg, or Small Square, was created for additional market space and has become Malmö’s alluring social hub where restaurants and bars sit side by side.
Malmö became industrialized early through shipbuilding and textile and machinery manufacturing but then struggled from the 1970s until the construction of the Øresund Bridge in 2000 once more tied the city to the Danish capital of Copenhagen. This strong, regional economic integration brought about a stunning transformation based on culture and knowledge. The blooming biotech and IT landscapes are connected to the university, as is the architecture scene that has produced treasures like the twisted multi-use skyscraper called the “Turning Torso” completed in 2005 in the revitalized West Harbor neighborhood.
Modern Malmö is known for its diverse food scene, art, which includes a lot of fun street art, and an approach to sustainable living that comes in many forms. For example, no visit to Malmö is complete without a coffee break with sweet pastries, called “Fika” which is simply considered a happy part of life. Biking is also part of life, as is open water swimming at the pier, followed by a sauna. Vintage and secondhand shops and outdoor flea markets flourish here, and haggling for bargains is part of the experience. Malmö is also a city of beautiful parks, all with whimsical fountains and sculptures, and within walking distance of each other. Notably, The Kings’ Park, with a casino, is separated only by moats and bridges from The Castle Garden, where a windmill turns, and seasonal flowers and vegetables from the gardens are sold on the spot.
Don’t miss:
A walk through The King’s Park and The Castle Garden in any season.
Serendipity:
Finding the unexpected- Needing to cross a canal and happening across a bridge edged with a row of bronzed shoes belonging to famous citizens through the ages.
Lunch Tip:
Salluhall, a cool indoor food court in a repurposed industrial hall, where the large variety of food options is paired with a cozy atmosphere.
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D3100 or iPhone 8.*