In an offbeat neighbourhood in Christianshavn
Christianshavn in motion for 400 years
“My point of view has always been a bit … offbeat” – Mark Frost
Of all the Danish kings in the 1000-year dynasty, King Christian IV is one of the longest-reigning and one of the most colorful and memorable. He built numerous beautiful brick buildings in the Dutch Renaissance style that still stand 400 years later. And, he founded a whole new section of the capital in 1618 across the harbor from the old city core, which he naturally named after himself- Christianshavn or Christian’s Harbor. Some visitors to Copenhagen get a glimpse of the neighborhood from the vantage point of a canal cruise boat, but few make it on foot over the Dybbølsbro harbor bridge to explore on their own or to take a private tour.
Originally an independent merchant’s city, Christian’s Harbor was laid out in a style reminiscent of a medieval Dutch town, with a grid of streets, a central square at the highest point, and canals, the latter made necessary by the marshy land. Since Christian IV was a lover of all things Dutch, he hired a Dutch engineer/architect to build his new city using landfills to create several artificial islands. The resulting larger-than-normal land parcels for the era allowed for spacious warehouses intended to attract wealthy merchants and tradesmen. Yet, the new landowners required further enticement to invest in a swampy area, so Christian had to grant 12 years of property and harbor tax relief. The King also had high-bastioned ramparts built at the outer edge of the island to provide an extra layer of defense for the old city, as well as for its new section.
An early wooden, temporary church was replaced in 1695 by the Baroque Church of Our Savior, but the tower had no spire until 50 years later. The now-famous helix spire has an external counterclockwise staircase that winds up to the golden figure of Christ. On top, there’s a breathtaking view of the city and the ocean toward Sweden. In the 1700s, the Danish Navy moved from its original location on the opposite harbor side to Holmen, a newly filled-in area north of Christian’s Harbor, which reinforced the area’s nautical character.
In 1971, squatters took over abandoned military barracks in a section of Christian’s Harbor, where they set up a car-free neighborhood that quickly developed into a hippie movement. They built homes without permits, ignoring property taxes and utility bills, establishing a self-governing, freewheeling community called The Freetown of Christiania. Fundamental to their common law, Christianites didn’t tolerate crime or hard drugs, though trade in cannabis on Pusher Street flourished and was tolerated until 2004. Police raids and strained relations with the authorities were followed by a negotiated land purchase at below-market prices, which resulted in so-called normalization. The Freetown of Christiania remains edgy, artistic, alternative, inclusive, and a venue for many cultural events.
This neighborhood built by traders and sailors has evolved over 400 years. Decidedly working-class for much of the last century, Christian’s Harbor developed a bohemian reputation in the 1970s, becoming a diverse and fashionable home to galleries, houseboats, and hip creative venues. New in the last few years, a bicycle/pedestrian bridge spans the harbor, connecting Christian’s Harbor and its street food scene with the old city on the other side. Yet another called the Circle Bridge, connects two neighborhood sections because Copenhageners like to commute by bike.
Don’t miss:
The view from the top of the Saviors Church over the city and as far as the bridge to Sweden.
Serendipity:
Finding the unexpected- ducking into an open gate to see the courtyard and finding a stunning formal garden instead.
Lunch Tip:
Christianshavns Boat Rental & Café on a pontoon in the canal for bistro food and a unique atmosphere.
Bedtime:
NH Collection, a modern hotel located at the Knippelsbro Bridge with a view over the harbor, recommended by tour guests.
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D3100 or iPhone 8.*