Passed-over World City Hamburg
Along the Inner Alster in Hamburg
“This place must not be passed over without consideration, as if it were common.” – Unknown
The northern German port city of Hamburg owns many names and titles. Officially the “Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg”, it’s second to Berlin; it’s Europe’s third largest port; it’s the largest EU non-capital city with 2.5 million residents; it’s one of three German city-states. Yet Hamburg is less popular than the capital and receives less than half the visitors. But, because the city has an energy and openness comparable to the Big Apple, it shouldn’t be passed over.
The name derives from the first permanent building between Rivers Alster and Elbe, the Hammaburg castle, constructed in 808AD by Emperor Charlemagne to defend against Slavic incursions. In 1189, Holy Roman Emperor Frederick I “Barbarossa” granted Hamburg the status of Free Imperial City, and its 1241 trade alliance with Lübeck marks the origin of the powerful Hanseatic League of trading cities. The merchants’ legacy lives on in this seat of Germany’s oldest stock exchange and the world’s oldest merchant bank as well as in the industries that shape modern Hamburg from shipping, logistics, and transport to media and more. Residents still consider themselves Hanseatic first and German second.
Hamburg’s lifeblood is the water, from the great River Elbe’s connection to the North Sea 110 km (68 mi) downriver and the hundreds of canals and streams crossed by some 2,500 bridges, to the Outer and Inner Alster lakes. These lakes in the city’s core are home to rowing and sailing clubs and are ringed with walking paths along which cafes offer rest, refreshment, and front-row views of regattas. Taking a boat tour is a must here, whether on the lakes, around the enormous harbor, or on the canals of the Speicherstadt.
At the end of the Inner Alster, the central Jungfernstieg boulevard connects the Neustadt (new town) with the Altstadt (old town). Nearby, one of Hamburg’s many large and beautiful parklands and gardens, “Planten un Blomen” (plants and flowers, in Low German) incorporates the Old Botanical Garden. Hamburg is home to a blend of old and new architectural landmarks, from 18th-century St. Michael’s Church to the finally finished Elbphilharmonie concert hall on the waterfront, a stand-out in both design and acoustics since 2017. Walking around the unique warehouse district, the Speicherstadt, where ornately decorated red brick buildings stand on timber-pilon foundations, is like stepping back in time.
There are three major markets, all worthy of a visit: Fishmarkt for early risers on Sunday mornings, the farmer’s market Isemarkt during the week, and Flohschanze, a retro flea market on the weekends. On rainy days, there are plenty of indoor activities such as the vast Miniatureland, countless museums, especially the Kunsthalle art museum, and galleries galore.
A legacy of its maritime past, Hamburg is legendary for the nightlife that emanates from St. Pauli, the red-light district. Everything, from low-key pubs to dance clubs and techno joints, is open late, and this is where the Beatles first made their mark in the early 1960’s on the Reeperbahn. But, in this birthplace of Brahms, the new concert hall isn’t alone in presenting top theater and musicals. This city has something for everyone, also in the way of gastronomy that spans widely from local fish specialties in down-to-earth restaurants to industrial chic and trendy spots offering food from around the world.
Don’t Miss:
Strolling along the Innen Alster lake to soak up the Hanseatic atmosphere.
Lunch Tip:
Carls Brasserie next to the Elbphilharmonie for fresh fish and typical Hamburg cuisine.
Bedtime:
Hotel Vorbach, an independent hotel on a quiet side street in the Roterbaum neighborhood.
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D5600 or iPhone 14 Pro.*