Off-season in Baltic Sea resort Warnemünde
Am Alten Strom in Warnemünde
“…what is beautiful is a joy for all seasons…” — Oscar Wilde
The seaside resort town of Warnemünde, on the Baltic coast in Germany’s Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania state, is best known for its long beachfront and sailboat marina. Yet, in addition to being a summer destination for landbound Germans, Warnemünde is a centuries-old fishing port to which industrialization brought a significant shipyard, and more recently a cruise terminal. It is a walkable and pleasant town, from the beach-side promenade lined with neoclassical villas to the town park and canal-side at Alter Strom.
Located as the name indicates, at the estuary of the river Warnow, Warnemünde began as a fishing village probably as early as 1195. Though today it is a district of the city of Rostock, the village was first mentioned as part of the 1252 Rostocker Heide purchase by Rostock and later incorporated so the ambitious Hanseatic city could secure its access to the sea. Until the 19th century, the village consisted of only two rows of one-story half-timbered houses built on stone foundations and separated by a narrow passage, all with east-facing gables. They are unique for this coast.
Warnemunde’s landmark is the 125-year-old, 34m (112 ft) high lighthouse that overlooks the estuary. Built in the late 19th century of glazed white bricks with a number of green brick bands, it is architecturally special as well as functional. A walk up the 175 steps to one of two galleries with exterior platforms reveals panoramic views over the sea and the picturesque town. The neighboring Teepott (teapot) building with its double-sloping roof, an example of East German architecture, completes the distinctive waterfront. From there, Westmole juts out into the Baltic from the Pilot Station.
Alter Strom canal was dug in 1432 to provide shelter for the fishing boats. Now, the promenade is lined with restaurants in the old fishermen’s homes, and it’s a wonderful place to walk and soak in the maritime atmosphere. At nr. 53, the house Norwegian painter Edvard Munch lived in from 1907-8, holds exhibitions. The parallel Alexandrinenstrasse bears witness to the original village with its pretty, vibrantly painted fisherman’s houses.
In town, there are pedestrian shopping streets, featuring independent specialty boutiques, one of which leads to the Neogothic-style church. The fishermen built their first church around 1200 on the riverbank. Destroyed in war, it was rebuilt twice yet could no longer serve the growing summer resort by the end of the 19th century. The current church contains the original altar, pulpit, and notably, pews from the 1580s whose carvings designate each person’s seat with their name or house markings and initials. The nearby Museum of Local History preserves old Warnemunde’s seafaring culture and way of life in a quaint old home.
Alter Strom is crossed by a pedestrian, turning bridge that connects the main town with Mittelmole. This newer part of town between Alten and Neuen Strom has a fish market, an amusement park, and a cruise ship terminal as well as a train station with connections to Rostock and points beyond. From here, a quick ferry ride provides access to the opposite riverbank and Hohe Düne, a modern Yacht Harbor Residence, and another long beach. From either side of the estuary, there is a constant parade of long-distance ferries to observe arriving or departing to Poland, Sweden, and Denmark.
Don’t miss:
Climbing up the lighthouse steps for the spectacular view.
Serendipity:
Locals along the way- When two elderly gentlemen selling entry to the lighthouse insist that on a clear day, it’s possible to see all the way to Denmark.
Lunch Tip:
Restaurant Stromgold for fresh fish on Alter Strom.
Bedtime:
Hotel Bellevue, a small, friendly old-style hotel located directly on the promenade overlooking the West Beach and the sea.
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D5600 or iPhone 14 Pro.*