Away to Denmark’s Second City – Aarhus
View over old and new Aarhus from a rooftop
“This second city is anything but a second choice.” ― Melinda Graper
While Aarhus, situated on the Jutland peninsula´s eastern coast at the Kattegat Sea, is Denmark’s second-largest city, it is definitely second to none. It’s a worthwhile getaway 187 km (116 mi) west of the capital for the variety of experiences that this quieter, intimate city offers. Founded in the 8th century during the early Viking Age as a harbor settlement at the mouth of Aarhus Å (river), it is one of Denmark’s oldest towns along with Ribe and Hedeby. The name, originally Aros, explains the city’s location: ár means “of the river” and oss means “river mouth”.
Due to its strategically advantageous position on intersecting trade routes between the Danish straits and the adjacent fertile countryside, Arhus quickly grew into a hub for sea-going trade to Norway. The first wooden church was built around 900AD, though Scandinavia’s oldest stone church replaced it in 1060. Those remains now form the crypt underneath the Cloister Church of Our Lady which was built two hundred years later as Aarhus’ first cathedral. The current Cathedral across the old town is Denmark’s longest and tallest. Begun as a Romanesque Basilica, it features exquisite, restored 14th-century frescos. On the opposite side of Bispetorvet Square is the Art Nouveau Aarhus Theater, which presents all manner of musical and theatrical productions.
Strolling through the old town reveals a street network formed during the Middle Ages. Narrow, curved lanes in the Latin Quarter with names like Cloister, Goldsmith, Rampart, or Bathhouse testify to what was, as do 17th-century merchants’ homes that now contain countless good restaurants and independent shops that make this a hip neighborhood. The river meanders through the old town from Mølle Park to the harbor. Covered in the 1930s and re-opened in stages by 2013, it’s part of an attractive gathering area, bordered by a bustling walkway lined with seating areas and restaurants.
Beyond the ancient, there’s no shortage of points of interest. Aarhus Town Hall, distinctive and different for Denmark with its 60 m (197 feet) marble-clad tower, was designed in the modern Functionalist style by one of the country’s most famous architects, Arne Jacobsen. The lobby is a masterpiece of mid-century clean lines. Nearby, ARoS Museum displays world-class art from the 18th century to the present and offers an additional magical experience on the colored glass rooftop walkway, the Rainbow Panorama. Another elevated experience, Salling, on the pedestrian Søndergade street, is a department store like many others. But there’s a grass and plant-clad rooftop with flower gardens, a café, a wine bar, and two protruding walkways for exceptional views over the town and harbor.
The old harbor has been completely revitalized in recent years. Next to the red-brick 19th-century Customs House, the modern “Dokk1” houses the central library and cultural center. The light rail whizzes by, and high-rise neighborhoods of apartments share waterfront space with part of Aarhus University. Founded in 1928, the university is a latecomer, but as Scandinavia’s largest, its size makes Aarhus Denmark´s demographically youngest city, and it supports the city’s knowledge-based industries: healthcare, research, telecommunications, and wind power.
Another must-experience architectural masterpiece, this one sustainably green, is a 30-minute bus ride from the main train station to the countryside. Moesgaard Museum exhibits Denmark’s ancient past in a modern building that is itself a sight to behold.
Don’t Miss:
Walking along Ågade along the river through the old town all the way to the harbor.
Lunch Tip:
Langhoff & Juul on Guldsmedgade in the Latin Quarter for delicious Danish open-faced sandwiches.
Serendipity:
Locals Along the Way- having a chat about entrepreneurship with the hotel owner and receiving a discounted museum voucher.
Bedtime:
SOFS Boutique Hotel, an independent, friendly small hotel in the Latin Quarter with a cozy courtyard deck and garden.
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D5600 or iPhone 14 Pro.*