Bicycle road trips around Gotland
View of Fridhem Beach and Högklint on Gotalnd
“…it’s not so much which road you take, as how you take it.” — Charles de Lint
The long, narrow Swedish island of Gotland in the Baltic Sea is ideal for exploring by bicycle as it is primarily sunny and largely rural outside the capital of Visby. A popular destination for domestic tourists, the island is strewn with pine forests and dotted with villages and farms, all divided from the sea by limestone cliffs. It was settled in prehistoric times by the Gutes (Goths) whose history is chronicled in the partly legendary Gutasaga. Their Gutalagen or Viking law ruled the island until civil war raged between Visby and the countryside in 1288 because the Hanseatic League would accept only the city for membership, so the island was split into two.
From the capital, the easiest way to explore the countryside and see some sights is by bicycle, taking either the northern or southern coastal road from just outside the ancient city’s Southern Gate. Along the south coast, the Högklint (High Cliff) Nature Reserve, about 10km (6 mi) from town, is well worth the ride and climb up to the clifftop at any time of day but especially at sunset. From there, the views back to Visby are stunning, and the ferry to Stockholm sails close by. Below on the city side of the cliffs, residents swim in calm waters from their local pebble beach at Fridhem. Not far from the beach and cliff, the bright yellow Nygård Manor House stands out along the road back to town. The family-run sheep farm offers vacation stays and has a farm store where sheep skins as well as other regional products such as honey and preserves are for sale.
From the biking path between Visby’s city wall and the sea, the northern road takes a steep climb for a small stretch up the cliff, though once on top, it’s flat through the pine forests. Headwinds can add to the exercise value of the 14km (9 mi) ride along the north coast to Lummelunda Grottan. This second-largest cave system in Sweden was discovered by three teenage boys in 1947 when they found a small stream flowing out of the rock wall and followed it into the cave. Three hundred years earlier, the river, into which the stream flows, was already used to power watermills, paper mills, and ironworks. Guided tours go into Linnaeus’ Cave for a close-up view of the stalactites and fossils, and the surrounding area offers beautiful nature walking paths.
On the way back to town, a downhill ride leads to Salthamn, a community between the cliff and ocean, where it’s possible to buy a property, rent a vacation house, or just stop for lunch. At the Wild Food Café, located in an old factory, everything is organic, all the fruit and vegetables are grown onsite, the plates are decorated with edible flowers, and the napkins are compostable. An adjacent shop in a vast warehouse offers interior design pieces, art, and fashion. The path around the building, along the kitchen garden, and through a small wood, ends at a pebble beach with a long jetty. It’s a lonely spot, so the ideal place for a swim in the turquoise water is Brissund Beach, halfway back to Visby.
Don’t Miss:
An evening swim with Swedish families at Fridhem Beach.
Lunch Tip:
Wild Food Café for delicious and beautiful organic food in a repurposed factory that combines industrial with Scandi-cool style.
Serendipity:
Needed rest stop- Fika (Swedish coffee break): Själsö Bakery for cardamom buns, at the top of a hill with an ocean view.
Serendipity:
Locals along the way- Chatting about sustainable travel with the talkative female chef at the organic café.
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D5600 or iPhone 12 Pro.*