Trek to Trondheim
View over Trondheim from Nidaros Cathedral
“Trekking means a traveling experience with thrilling excitement.” – Amit Kalantri
Most travelers to Norway visit the capital and maybe Bergen on their way to a hiking adventure, but far fewer trek north to the gem that is Trondheim. As the capital of the Trøndelag region, this third largest Norwegian city, and one of the oldest and most important, has the air of both a small town and a modern city offering history, culture, and nearby nature.
Norway’s capital during the Viking age, Trondheim was founded as a trading port by Olav Tryggvason in 997 and named Nidaros for its position by the estuary of the River Nid, which forms the peninsula on which the city developed, before flowing into the fjord. The world’s northernmost gothic cathedral now bears that Old Norse name. Begun in 1070AD over the tomb of Olav II, who brought Christianity to Norway and achieved cult status, the church was a pilgrimage site from the start. For 1000 years Nidaros Cathedral, with its enormous rose window, has marked the end of the important pilgrim route through Scandinavia. A climb up 172 narrow steps inside one tower and a walk around the roof perimeter reveals a fantastic 360° view. Next door, the Archbishop’s Palace now houses a fascinating historical museum, and the courtyard in between serves as an outdoor concert venue.
In Trondheim’s vast main square, the Olaf statue watches from on high over the heart of town with its marketplace and looks toward the Ravnkloa fish market at the harbor front. From here, the ferry leaves for Munk Island, first a Viking execution place, then a Benedictine monastery, finally a fortress that makes an enjoyable excursion stop. At “Sunnyside” on the lower harbor, old shipyard cranes still stand in front of brick storehouses now transformed into chic restaurants and assorted music venues.
On the Nidelva River near the Old Bridge, built to access Kristiansten Fortress, traditional wharves and colorful warehouses sit on stilts jutting precariously over the river to enable cargo loading even when the significant North Atlantic tides are low. Across on the right bank, the young, hip former working-class neighborhood of Bakklandet is known for picturesque wooden houses, cobbled streets, a vibrant café culture, and a lot of biking- so much so that the steep hill to the upper streets features the world’s only automatic bicycle lift.
A tranquil walking and biking path along the river leads past the University of Science and Technology, which accounts for Trondheim’s huge student population and a considerable number of start-up companies. In the hills above, the Tyholt communications tower provides breathtaking views of the entire region from the cool glass revolving restaurant or the observation platform. Further along, after passing the sports complex, a footbridge crosses the river to the quirky Ila neighborhood with its yacht harbor. Peaceful nature is a short ride away on the historic tram up to the hills of Lian. Here, the lake is agreeable for a swim, and bushes lining paths in the surrounding woods are full of blueberries in late summer that are ripe for picking.
Don’t miss:
A boat excursion on the Nidelva River and out on the fjord to Monk’s Island.
Serendipity:
Local along the way- A conversation with the conductor of the Lian tram line leads to local knowledge about where to find ripe wild blueberries along the lake path.
Lunch Tip:
Kalas & Canasta in Bakkelandet for superb local dishes and atmosphere in a historic building.
Bedtime:
Britannia Hotel, an elegant, historic hotel in the city center with a superb restaurant.
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D3100 or iPhone 8.*