Away from it all on Ærø
View of the ocean, small bath houses, and rolling hills of Ærø
“Sometimes you need to get away… to figure out who you are again.” ― Judd Apatow
Ærø is a picturesque island in a sea of islands off the coast of a larger island in the Baltic Sea on the southern fringe of the Danish Kingdom. It takes a 75-minute ferry ride from Svendborg on the island of Funen (Fyn) to reach the shores of this tranquil place of rolling hills of grain and meadows. With a population of less than 6000, it is especially quiet before or after the summer high season; it feels intimate then, and deeply enjoyable.
From early medieval times, the Danish kings owned Ærø and passed it on to crown relatives through inheritance. After being mortgaged by one owner, it became connected to the Duchy of Schleswig and Duke Johan the Younger, brother of King Frederik II. Later Ærø was divided amongst several heirs, which caused major problems for the farming inhabitants, as the official language changed from Danish to German, and movement from one part of the island to another became illegal. In 1750, Ærø was united and reunified with the Danish crown.
At the southeast end of the island, the largest town, Marstal, began as a fishing village and grew into a significant shipping town that by 1700 was building large numbers of trading ships, second only to Copenhagen. Still today, Marstal is dominated by shipping companies, the harbor, shipyards, Denmark’s Navigation School, and an engaging maritime museum. Ærøskøbing, on the north-central coast, has the primary ferry connection to Funen. It is a well-preserved medieval village whose quaint cobbled streets are lined with colorfully painted houses with equally colorful and beautifully carved doors, many dating from the 1600s. In the scenic old town square, two white-painted wooden pumps, which provided households with water, still stand, though a local tale says that one gave whiskey rather than water. Nowadays, the whiskey distillery on the square offers tastings every afternoon. Søby, situated at the western end, is the island’s industrial center, and the thriving shipyard is a major employer. Søbygaard manor, built in 1580 by Duke Johan, who also built Glücksburg Castle, now serves as a historical museum and gathering place for the local population. On the island’s west tip, an old lighthouse doubles as a clubhouse for the island’s golf course. Nearby Voderup cliff leads down to the ocean in several distinctly stepped layers, revealing its ice age geology.
Summer on Æro is dedicated to beach-going, fishing, biking, and sailing. Though cars are allowed, biking is the best way to explore the island along three main bicycle routes, and free buses even take bikes if the peddling becomes too much. The path from Ærøskøbing to Marstal leads along the top of the dike, with a view over the sea and the opposite low-lying moor landscape. Built in 1856 to partially dry the marshland, the dike enabled the first sturdy road connection to unite the two original islands and the two towns. The remaining marsh was never cultivated and is still home to rare plant and bird life. The island’s pre-history is revealed in a large stone age burial mound along the path. Several old windmills dot Æro’s landscape, though they have been replaced by new ones that provide 100% of this green island’s electricity. Solar energy warms the residents’ water, and Denmark’s first fully electric ferryboat, “Ellen”, sails from Søby to Faaborg on Funen.
Don’t miss:
A bike tour over a couple of days to discover the diversity of this beautiful small island.
Serendipity:
Finding the unexpected- walking through Æroskøbing and being amazed by the many intricately carved and beautifully painted doors.
Lunch Tip:
Typical Danish lunch at Restaurant Fru Berg on the pier in Marstal.
Bedtime:
Arnfeldt Hotel, charming and family-owned in beautiful Æroskøbing.
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D3100 or iPhone 8.*