Out on the edge in Basel
View of Basel from the Rhein River
“Out on the edge you see all kinds of things you can’t see from the center.” — Kurt Vonnegut, Jr.
The Swiss city of Basel isn’t the county’s most famous or most visited even though it has been home to many eminent citizens and currently claims renowned museums as well as prosperous pharma and chemicals industries. Located at Switzerland’s northwestern edge, called the three-country corner bordering France and Germany where the Rhein takes a 90-degree northward turn, the city is an oddity: a city-state with suburbs in two other countries, an airport in France, three major train stations, and divided by the river into two sections: Grossbasel and Kleinbasel.
Its name derives from a third-century Basilia or Roman castle incorporated into imperial fortifications. An Alemannic and Frankish settlement gradually grew around the castle and by the 11th century, the medieval city began to crystalize. The red sandstone Minster was begun in 1019, the main marketplace dates from 1091 when the first defensive walls were built, and soon nobles and burghers formed a city council. The first bridge across the Rhein in 1225 was a boost for the town and a catalyst for the fortified settlement of Kleinbasel on the right bank, but it wasn’t until 1501 that Basel’s strategic location earned it an invitation to join the Swiss Confederation.
Basel’s exceptionally well-preserved medieval core is full of townhouses from the 14th century, many sitting in irregular rows lining steep, narrow streets leading from the river to the Minster and Market Squares. The Minster was finally finished in 1500 with a roof of glazed colored tiles laid in a stunning pattern. Both 60-meter towers have 242 steps to climb for a view of the city, the Black Forest, and the Jura Mountains. Tuesdays through Saturdays, Basel’s traditional fresh goods City Market takes place in front of the bright red 500-year-old Rathaus whose triple-arched entrance leads to a courtyard decorated with brilliant frescos. Of the city’s three remaining fortified gates, the massive Spalentor at the city’s western approach is the most impressive.
Basel University, established in 1460, is Switzerland’s oldest, where the likes of Erasmus, Paracelsus, Nietzsche, and Carl Jung have taught. The city also boasts the world’s first publicly accessible art collection, now the Kunstmuseum, known for its extensive Holbein collection. Another source of pride, The Beyeler Foundation, located 6 km outside of town by tram, stages marvelous modern art exhibitions. The book trade also has a long history in Basel. Apprentices of Johannes Gutenberg introduced printing here, a mill on the Gewerbekanal has been making paper since 1453, and a contemporaneous publishing house printed Erasmus’ works. Today, the Basel Paper Mill Museum invites visitors to make their own paper using a hand-operated machine driven by a waterwheel.
Since this walkable city straddles the Rhein, numerous crossing options include four bridges and the popular “Fähri” ferry boats that link the shores in minutes using only cables and the river’s fast-flowing currents. On Grossbasel’s banks, two bathing platforms “Badhysli” provide river access for a summertime swim. There are sun decks for lounging, too. Or, from Kleinbasels’s long promenade, simply walk upstream and float back with the current. Another way to see the city from the water is to take a river cruise, and experience the three-country corner firsthand.
Don’t Miss:
Crossing the river on a Fähri at any time of year for a view of both riverbanks.
Serendipity:
Finding the Unexpected- When a conversation with a hotel bellhop results in an exceptional dinner recommendation.
Lunch Tip:
Authentic Swiss open sandwiches at Brotli Bar.
Bedtime:
Hotel Steinschanze, a cosmopolitan hotel in the city just a 5-minute walk from Barfüssler Square.
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D3100 or iPhone 12 Pro.*