Experience autumnal harmony in Freiburg
View over Freiburg from Castle Hill
“There is harmony in autumn and a luster in its sky…” — Percy Bysshe Shelley
In Germany’s warm, sunny southwest corner, at the western edge of the alluring Black Forest along the Rhein River, the princely dynasty of Zähringen built a fortified keep on a hillside 1000 years ago. In 1120, Duke Berthold III founded Freiburg im Breisgau as a free market town. The name means free borough or fortified town in the (Rhein) breakwater region. Strategically situated at a crossroads of important trade routes, Freiburg quickly became significant in commerce, learning, and as a religious center.
Freiburgers say “let yourself drift”: stroll around and take in the harmonious atmosphere and dynamic energy of this city in the heart of the Baden wine-growing region bordering France. Surprising for first-time visitors is the 15.5 km (10 mi.) system of narrow open watercourses running along many medieval streets. These tiny canals, fed by cooling water from the Dreisam River, make the town as unique today as at the city’s founding when they brought drinking, cooking, washing, and firefighting water. Now mini boat races take place, but the legend persists that anyone who steps in by accident will marry a Freiburg native.
The city’s crown jewel is the red sandstone Minster. Huge interior columns symbolically anchor it to the earth and the open Gothic stonework tower reaches for heaven. Begun as a Romanesque church in the 13th century, it took over 300 years to complete. Ninety-one scary-looking gargoyles lead rainwater away from the façade and keep demons away, too. All around the church, every day but Sunday is market day. Local wares include fresh produce and flowers, Freiburg’s famous “long red” bratwurst, and regional crafts. The eye-catching Merchants House with its bright-red façade and ornamental corner towers allude to the city’s riches during medieval times. This served as customs and warehouse, and now the beautiful interior is open for wine tastings and concerts.
At Rathaus Square, chimes ring at noon from the newer of two ancient town hall buildings. At the Augustiner Square, the former monastery is the wonderful Augustiner Museum of art and culture, and students congregate at restaurants or the Biergarten to drink the local brew. Two of Freiburg’s original 5 medieval defensive tower gates remain. The Schwabentor leads to Freiburg’s original river crossing, and the older Martinstor has stood on Freiburg’s southwest side since 1202 as an integral part of the medieval battlements. Around the corner, the lively converted Markthalle houses international food stalls.
The Sclossberg, named after the ruined Zähringer fortifications, is reachable in 3 minutes by funicular from the Seepark. Follow the path southwest for a scenic view over vineyards and rooftops or continue to the new tower for a 360-degree panorama. The beer garden is an ideal spot for a sun-down drink overlooking the French Voges mountains. An excursion to the Black Forest is easy from Berthold’s Fountain via bus and cable car to Schauinsland, where locals go in all seasons to hike and mountain bike the shaded forest paths.
Modern Freiburg is known for Badische hospitality especially in autumn when wine tastings abound after the harvest. It is also an eco-city, with a pedestrian old town and an extensive tram network. Advanced environmental practices dominate in newly built neighborhoods and in the new library of the renowned medieval university.
Don’t miss:
Taking the funicular up to the Castle Hill for the view over Freiburg and surroundings from above.
Lunch Tip:
The Markthalle international food hall with a champagne bar.
Bedtime:
Hotel Oberkirch, family-owned and run, in historic buildings right on the Market Square.
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D3100 or iPhone 12 Pro.*