The quiet side of the Italian Riviera
View of Alassio from the little chapel
“It’s very quiet, so you get to explore the quiet side.” ― Mickey Hart
The lovely and welcoming seaside resort of Alassio lies between Genoa and the French border, where the Italien Riviera is less visited and less hectic than further east and south. Besides its scenic views, quaint town center, and some interesting monuments, Alassio has one of the longest sandy beaches on the western coast of Liguria, and it’s one that slopes gently into the sea. In the off-season, there is enough activity and plenty of peace, which is why the English came here to winter in the late 1800s, contributing to the fortunes of the area and building many of the beautiful villas that still cling to the pine-covered hillsides.
After WWII, international personalities of film and culture were drawn here for “la dolce vita”, and they tended to congregate at the Caffé Roma, which was owned by Mario Berrino. His friend Ernest Hemmingway gave him the idea to immortalize the signatures of the many famous café visitors in ceramic rather than traditionally in a book. And so, the Muretto di Alassio came into being in 1953. The stone wall, near the city hall and its pretty park, now displays over 1000 colorful autographed ceramic tiles, which makes for some fun and interesting reading before or after a visit to the renowned café across the street.
The town’s maritime prosperity during medieval times is reflected in the Budello, meaning the drain. This typical, very narrow cobbled Ligurian street runs parallel to the coastline, and elegant old buildings stand side by side with former fishermen’s homes. Today, the pedestrian street features shops selling the local specialties for which Alassio is well known, such as chocolates, pastries, gelato, and cheeses. Nearby and integrated into the sea wall, a round stone watchtower stands strategic position. It was built in the 16th century by the Genovese to ward off pirates from the densely populated and economically important shipbuilding district at the waterfront. Further along the beach, a modern pier juts out from the city center attracting fishermen, swimmers, and onlookers, while boating excursions depart and return. Perched on an outcropping of rock at the western end of town is a little chapel dedicated to those lost at sea that provides a surprise view around the bend to the sailboat marina.
In the hills above Alassio, delights wait for those who will hike up high for the views. Set on the highest peak in the area, the church of Madonna della Guardia was built in the 13th century and dedicated to Our Lady Star of the Sea, who guides and protects seafarers. The ancient Torre della Vegliasco overlooks the “the Bay of Sun” from another hilltop, having served as part of the Genovese defense systems. A shorter walk just outside town to the Villa della Pergola leads to a tranquil English garden with rare and exotic plants plus another breathtaking view over the bay. For those not inclined to climb, Alassio’s promenade hugs the coast for several kilometers westward, making it ideal for a morning or an evening walk in case the sea isn’t alluring enough.
Don’t Miss:
The view back at town from the end of the pier.
Lunch Tip:
The Gazebo at the Grand Hotel Alassio on the promenade for good bistro food and a view over the ocean.
Bedtime:
Hotel Eden, a quiet and elegant old-style hotel on the beach, a little away from the town center.
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D3100 or iPhone 8.*