Stunning Stirling at Scotland’s Crossroads
View over Stirling Castle, town and countryside from the Wallace Monument
“Scotland is stunning.” — Anonymous
Located in central Scotland on the lowest crossing point of the River Forth before it widens into the Firth, Stirling, once Scotland’s capital, is considered the gateway to the Highlands. At this convergence of south-north travel, the early medieval settlement surrounded by rich farmland became a fortified frontier town, then in 1130, a royal burgh dominated by merchants who held a monopoly on all trade. Stirling connected the royal citadel, the Old Bridge over the River Firth, and the port. The origin of the name is much debated, yet likely derives from Gaelic meaning place of strife.
The jewel in Stirling’s crown, Stirling Castle, the crowning site of Mary Queen of Scots, sits on a craggy volcanic rock above the Old Town. There was a fortress on the site since prehistoric times, yet the earliest record of the current castle dates to 1110. For centuries, it guarded the Forth crossing and has been attacked many times, probably because it was said that whoever held Stirling held Scotland. The historically and architecturally important castle with the Great Hall, Royal Chapel, and lovely gardens make for an extraordinary visit.
Stirling boasts further significant highlights. In Top o’ the Town, the Church of the Holy Rude hosted the crowning of 13-month-old James VI, Mary’s son. Original rounded Scots pillars and massive oak timbered roof testify to its age as nearly equal to the castle. Outside in the Old Kirkyard, ancient graves depict trade symbols or the merchants’ guild ‘reversed 4’ that signified quality goods. From the highest point, there’s a view up to the castle and far down over the King’s Park, once royal jousting and hunting grounds, now a modern leisure spot that’s home to a skate park, tennis courts, and Stirling Golf Club.
Opposite the church, the estate of wealthy merchant John Cowane established Cowane’s Hospital in 1636 as an Almshouse, a refuge for people fallen on hard times. Fine burgh architecture, exquisite stained-glass windows, a rare institutional garden, and Scotland’s oldest bowling green make for a fun visit. And the Old Town Jail, a museum for the history of crime and punishment, is next door.
Downhill through the delightful town, The Stirling Smith Art Gallery, in a Victorian building, showcases a remarkable collection of art and Scottish history. The exhibition centers around the works of Thomas Stuart Smith, an accomplished artist “who could paint anything” and avid collector of art as well as rarities, such as the world’s oldest football, dating to 1540.
A walk in Riverside past the cherry trees and across the river leads to Cambuskenneth Abbey, presently situated in an artists’ village among orchards. Founded in 1147 by David I, King of Scots, it was at the monastery that Scottish nobles swore fealty to David Bruce, son of King Robert, in 1326. Fifty years later, the army of English King Richard II burned it to ruins. Today, only the magnificent, free-standing early Gothic bell tower remains. From there, a country lane along the river approaches the Wallace Monument and museum on the Abbey Craig. Overlooking the site of the 1297 Battle of Stirling Bridge, where William Wallace defeated the English, it’s worth climbing up 246 steps to the crown for a spectacular view for miles around, including over the beautiful Stirling University campus and lakes.
Don’t Miss:
Stunning Stirling Castle on the rock.
Serendipity:
Locals along the way- meeting a friendly dog walker who pointed the way to the “magical” cherry blossom walk along the river and provided a tip for the best cream tea.
Lunch Tip:
Scholars at the Stirling Highland Hotel on Spital Street for a tasty lunch or afternoon tea.
Bedtime:
No local hotel needed, as it’s an excellent day trip from Edinburgh’s Waverly Station (40-minute train ride). Stay at 24 Royal Terrace in Edinburgh, a small and colorful hotel with a gallery and whisky bar.
Subscribe for inspiration to have my posts drop directly into your inbox. *If you enjoyed what you read, please share this post with like-minded travelers.*
*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D5600 or iPhone 14 Pro.*