Off-season in Tallinn
View over Tallinn Old Town from Toompea
“What good is the warmth of summer without the cold of winter to give it sweetness.” — John Steinbeck
Estonia in the winter can be a cold and wet affair in addition to a dark one. Yet, the capital city of Tallinn on the shore of the Gulf of Finland offers a cheerful, well-visited Christmas market dating back to the Middle Ages which is well worth a visit. The city also offers up a host of other surprises for willing off-season travelers.
Tallinn has strong ties to both Scandinavia and Germany going back 800 years. The Danish crown sought to expand into the Baltic region, where Christianity was late in taking hold, during the Northern Crusades that followed victory during the Crusades for Jerusalem. Danish King Valdemar II conquered the Estonian Lyndanise fortress in 1219 and then built a castle in its place on Toompea Hill. This place has remained the seat of power and central authority through the ages, regardless of who or what nation ruled the country during various eras into modern times.
The Lower Town, now known as the Old Town and also called the city of the citizens, received its city rights through the Lübeck bylaws in 1248 and then swiftly became a major trading port situated strategically between western and northern Europe and Russia. Known by its German name Reval until the 20th century, the city’s prosperity grew further with Hanseatic League membership after 1285. A towered gothic Town Hall anchors the city from the central square and is surrounded by the grand and beautifully renovated former homes and warehouses of wealthy German merchants and nobles. Since the city was never razed and pillaged, most of the buildings, fortifying walls, cobbled streets, medieval churches, and 12 of the original 66 defensive towers remain intact today, and together they lend the city a great deal of atmosphere in any season.
The New Town, settled by ethnic Estonians in the mid-1800s, surrounds the old city in a crescent formation bordering the port and stretching to Toompea Hill. Sea transport and logistics remain an important part of the Estonian economy, in recent years supplemented by the burgeoning cruise industry. Adjacent to Tallinn’s port, the former industrial and fishing district of Kalamaja is fast developing into a desirable place for hipsters to live, work, and play. Also situated near the sea, the colorful baroque Kadriorg Palace is surrounded by beautiful formal gardens and a park with lakes and walking paths leading to the water. Built by Peter I of Russia, it now houses an alluring museum for foreign art, with a café that serves warming drinks.
Modern Tallinn combines the old with the new in its role as not only the capital of Estonia but also as the country’s cultural, financial, and research center. It is also Europe’s largest hub for IT start-ups as well as the birthplace of Skype. All three town sections are packed with fusion restaurants, chic bars, interesting museums, and hip galleries. Changing affiliations with Scandinavia and Russia are still strongly reflected in the food and drink, with favorites being herring and vodka. Tallinn’s Germanic past has left the town peppered with ornately decorated Viennese-style cafes that serve up delicious coffee and beautiful, tasty pastries.
Don’t miss:
The view from the fortifications over the Old Town and new glass high-rises in the distance.
Lunch Tip:
Local specialty foods and drinks at the Christmas Market stands.
Bedtime:
Meriton Old Town Garden Hotel on Pikk (street) in an ancient building where the rooms have huge exposed beams and good views.
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D3100 or iPhone 8.*