Marvel at Chefchaouen- Morocco’s Blue City
View of Chefchaouen, Morocco’s Blue City against the Rif Mountains
“One travels so as to learn once more how to marvel at life…” — Ella Maillart
Chefchaouen is a marvelous city set high in the Rif mountains of northern Morocco. Though rich in history as home to civilizations from the indigenous Berber (Amazigh) and Phoenicians to Romans and Arabs, it isn’t on most visitors’ itineraries. The town’s name derives from two Berber words: “chef”, to look at, and “chaouen”, the horns, referring to two towering mountain peaks. Yet, Chefchaouen was founded in 1471, well after the Muslim conquest, as a Kasbah (fortress) erected by Sultan Moulay Al-Rashid to defend against Portuguese invaders. When Muslim and Jewish refugees fled the Spanish Reconquista soon after, Chefchaouen grew into a Medina (Old Town) that attracted merchants, artisans, and well-to-do families who brought prosperity.
Known as Morocco’s “Blue City” for the blue-washed buildings of its Medina, Chefchaouen is worth a visit for the color alone. Stone-paved streets, walls, and courtyards are often all painted mesmerizing nuances of blue. In many lanes and passageways, doors, window trims, entryway tiles, fountains, and even archways are blue. Some say the azure-blue color was mixed with the lime wash to repel mosquitos and keep the buildings cool in the heat of summer days. Others say that Jewish settlers after WWII proliferated their sacred color.
The atmosphere in Chefchaouen is relaxed, not frenetic; though the lanes are narrow, there is no jostling among crowds of visitors nor pushy sellers to navigate around. Yet, it is part of the cultural experience when shopping for locally made handcrafts to haggle at least shortly over the price. It is a wonderful place to simply explore, go up and down steep stairways, get lost along the narrow alleyways that connect small squares, and poke into leather, pottery, jewelry, and weavers’ shops or ateliers. Around every corner, there is another decorative door or window, stairway, fountain, hidden courtyard, or a tunnel to another street, and many cats.
The main square Outa el-Hammam with its enormous shade tree, reflecting a mix of Arabian and Spanish influence, is Chefchaouen’s historical nucleus. Evenings are especially vibrant with well-visited restaurants and performing buskers. The neighboring red clay Kasbah (citadel) is the historic fortress from the 15th century. Its courtyard contains a beautiful Andalusian garden, the Ethnological Museum showcasing Moroccan heritage, and a tower to climb for a view. The Grand Mosque next door, dating from the city’s earliest period is unusual for its octagonal minaret and red tiled roof. Another picturesque square, Plaza El Haouta, is surrounded by two-story houses and anchored by an important four-sided fountain, Chefchaouen’s largest public water source for drinking and washing. Souk market days are Mondays and Thursdays in numerous spots in the old Medina. People come from the surrounding area to sell their spices, textiles, handcrafts, produce, and goat cheese, for which Chefchaouen is known.
The ancient Bab El Onser gate in the upper part of town leads out of the Medina to the river, Ras El Maa, and a waterfall. The nearby Lavadero de la Ciudad area, Spanish for city laundry, is where residents once did their washing by the river. A lovely walkway and small bridge lead over the river to terraces with stands and restaurants. There’s a view of Chefchaouen, and hiking trails lead into the mountains, including a path to the Spanish Mosque that’s a 30-minute walk to see the sunset over the Blue City.
Don’t Miss:
Wandering without aim around the enchanting narrow lanes to soak in the atmosphere, because the city is the site.
Serendipity:
Finding the way- walking continuously uphill from the Bab El-Hammar Gate, turning a blind corner, and bumping into the Kasbah and Mosque.
Lunch Tip:
Cafe Clock for a view from the roof and authentic food, like camel burgers.
Dinner Tip:
Galitos at the foot of Bab El-Hammar gate for delicious Moroccan tagine, Harira soup, and juices.
Bedtime:
Hotel Madrid, opposite the Bab El-Hammar Gate, where each room is beautifully decorated with Moroccan designs each in a different color.
Subscribe for inspiration to have my posts drop directly into your inbox. *If you enjoyed what you read, please share this post with like-minded travelers.*
*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D5600 or iPhone 14 Pro.*