Frontier Town Flensburg
View of Flensburg from across the fjord
“I don’t believe in frontiers, and I don’t believe in… nationalities” – Julio Iglesias
Throughout most of its over 800-year history, the German maritime city of Flensburg belonged to the Danish Kingdom, though the people identified culturally and linguistically with the Duchy of Schleswig. In 1864 after several wars, it became part of the German Empire. One hundred years ago, in July 1920, a new border was drawn between the two countries at the city’s northern edge, following a League of Nations-sanctioned plebiscite. Now as a frontier town on a border that remained intact even after another World War, Flensburg feels very German. Yet, it is home to a significant Danish minority with its own schools, libraries, churches, and associations where the Danish language and culture flourish peacefully.
Sheltered at the end of a long fjord and located on an ancient north/south trackway, Flensburg was founded by Danish fishermen and German merchants and rose quickly to become the second most important port city of the Danish Crown. The seafaring history and culture can still be felt everywhere, in the streets named Dock Street and Sailmaker Street, and along the extensive harbor front. At the quayside lie historic wooden boats opposite centuries-old taverns, an old wooden crane, and a museum shipyard that restores old vessels using original methods. Fjord boat excursions also depart from here. Further out, two modern shipyards build ferries, naval vessels, and fancy sailing yachts.
The former customs house, now an engaging maritime museum, tells stories of overseas trade that landed New World goods in Flensburg’s port, such as coffee, cane sugar, and exotic timber. In the 1700s, raw sugar cane juice from the Danish West Indies was refined in the city’s distilleries, earning Flensburg the name “Rum City” because sailors frequented over 200 thriving rum houses. In the Rote Strasse, a business place for merchants, craftsmen, and innkeepers since medieval times, specialty rum shops still offer tastings and sales. There are six inner courtyards to poke into along this street, where the atmosphere from bygone days is preserved. Small shops and inns offer coffee, tea, and wine to enjoy on-site or to take home, and potters, glassmakers, jewelers, and soap makers sell their exquisite crafts.
From the Rote Strasse, Flensburg’s old city stretches along the fjord, starting at the Southern Market and Nikolai Church, where the long tradition of lively weekly farmers markets continues, through the Northern Market and Marien Church to the last surviving medieval city entrance, the Northern Gate. All these buildings reflect the merchants’ wealth, prominence, and confidence, from the red brick Renaissance gate to the grand altar that adorns the 13th-century Gothic Marien Church. Nowadays, the Norderstrasse leading to the Northern Gate contrasts with the nostalgic Rote Strasse by being known for youthful culture, art projects, funky and vintage fashion as well as liberal politics.
High above the long main street, up steep steps, sits the Museum Mount which features regional art and culture in two buildings, themselves beautiful enough to be worth the climb. Just beyond, in Flensburg’s old cemetery, The Flensburg Lion, once a symbol of victory in war, now stands as a symbol of trust and friendship between two nations.
Don’t miss:
Taking a boat excursion on the fjord past the German Naval Academy to Glucksburg and back.
Lunch Tip:
A “curry wurst” at Am Kanalschuppen at fjord-side.
Bedtime:
Hotel Alte Post, an attractively remodeled old post office with a glass-covered courtyard across the street from the fjord.
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D3100 or iPhone 8.*