Explore exceptional Elsinore
Kronborg Castle seen from outside the fortification walls.
o“We shall not cease from exploration and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started and know the place for the first time”. – T.S. Elliot
At the northeast corner of the Danish Kingdom, 40 km (25 mi.) north of the capital on the coast, lies the picturesque town of Helsingør (Elsinore). Of the many medieval Danish market towns, Helsingør is exceptional due to the imposing presence of Kronborg Castle which overlooks the 4km (2.5 mi.) wide entrance to the Øresund straight. Though the castle had existed for a couple of centuries, it was immortalized in 1600 by William Shakespeare as Elsinore in his play, Hamlet.
Helsingør derives either from “hals” meaning neck or narrow straight or from legendary Nordic figures named Helsing. The fisher folk known as the Helsingers were first mentioned in the Danish Census Book by King Valdemar II in 1231. Their village had grown to a town of importance with a Romanesque church dedicated to St. Olaf that was begun around 1200. It was later surrounded by several convents, though only the later Gothic cathedral remains. King Erik of Pomerania, successor to his great-aunt Queen Margrethe I, founded the current town in 1420.
To collect Sound Dues from passing ships, whether en route to Denmark or not, Erik built Krogen, a medieval fortress, on this strategic location commanding the important outlet of the Baltic Sea. Cannons on both sides could fire on and sink any non-compliant ship. The dues, which remained in force for over four centuries and constituted up to two-thirds of Denmark’s state income, also brought significant trade and wealth to the town, making Helsingør extraordinary within the Danish realm. In 1580, Frederik II expanded Krogen, transforming it into a magnificent Renaissance castle, and renamed it Kronborg.
Helsingør’s splendidly preserved, now pedestrian, medieval quarter is pleasant to stroll through to see restored ship captains’ and merchants’ houses in 1400s styles ranging from stone to brick with half-timbering. Equally alluring brick structures include the fortress-like Town Hall, the very elegant train station, and the early Renaissance St. Mary’s Church and Carmelite monastery. King Erik had a hand in town planning, which resulted in the grid of three streets parallel to the coastline and four perpendicular streets, though initially without a main square. The widest street, Stengade, now offers shopping and dining for all tastes, as do the narrow, cobbled side lanes.
For a century, beginning in 1883, the Helsingør Shipyard, covering the land between the town and castle, was a major employer as well as a landmark. After the industrial era ended, Helsingør had to reinvent itself. The Culture Harbor of Kronborg project has done just that by uniting the ancient with the new. Ancient Kronborg Castle is the main historical attraction, with its grand Knight’s Hall and dungeon, where legendary Holger Danske sits ready to save Denmark in times of need. Shakespeare’s Hamlet has been performed annually since 1937 in the open-air courtyard, traditionally in English, with many notable British actors taking the lead role.
New is the Culture Yard, a community center, library, and street food hall, which now all inhabit the rustic old shipyard. It’s complemented by the noteworthy M/S Maritime Museum of Denmark, located inside award-winning architecture mostly below ground in the adjacent former dry dock. Across the harbor, the HH Ferry route, the world’s busiest with more than 70 daily departures in each direction, brings day-trippers to and from sister city Helsingborg, Sweden.
Don’t Miss:
Visiting Hamlet’s Castle and walking around the enormous outer fortifications along the ocean.
Serendipity:
Locals along the way- Asking at lunch for a dessert recommendation for mid-afternoon and finding out about the locally famous 100-year-old Brostræde ice cream shop.
Lunch Tip:
Café Kaiser for traditional Danish open-faced sandwiches. And for dessert, the famous 100-year-old Brostræde ice cream shop.
Bedtime:
No local hotel needed, as Elsinore is an excellent day trip (40-minute train ride) from Copenhagen.
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D3100 or iPhone 12 Pro.*