Enjoy the quiet atmosphere of Leeuwarden
Leeuwarden Binnenstadt inner city
“…it is only in an atmosphere of quiet that true joy can live.” ―Bertrand Russell
In the northern Netherlands, three villages merged in the early 9th century, and the town became known as Leeuwarden, the contemporary capital of Friesland. Though to this day, there is uncertainty about the name origin, and there are many different spellings, it most likely meant a sheltered landing place, quite suitable for this watery province and its strategic position at the end Middelzee River close to the North Sea. Until the waters began to recede in the 15th century, the town was a significant maritime trading center.
Leeuwarden is an unexpected joy to visit, and the best way to start is by going to jail. The Blokhuispoort served as a prison from 1580 until 1995, when the historic building was converted into a multi-purpose business and cultural center accommodating a restaurant overlooking the city’s quiet old moat, the main library, and an events venue in inner courtyards. On the ground floor, there’s a Dutch prison museum and former jail cells house ateliers for artists who sell their beautiful crafts. Upstairs, a hostel called Alibi offers a chance to spend the night in a spartan yet refurbished cell. The story of a daring WWII prison break is told at the Frisian Resistance Museum.
From Blokhuispoort, it’s a short walk to the charming core of Leeuwarden’s historic city, or Binnenstad, where the vibe is intimate among street art and fun sculptures. The central canal flows past the oldest buildings, including the renaissance weigh house called De Waag in Waagplein Square. On either side of the canal, the shopping streets are pedestrian, and in the canal between them, cafes rest on wooden decks, and old Dutch Skütsje barges lie moored quayside with onboard restaurants. To see the city from the water, take a flat bottom Frisian barge on the canals and the old moat, or rent an electric boat to explore on your own.
An observation deck atop the Oldehove crooked tower affords an uninterrupted view of the flat surrounding countryside. Construction of the Oldehove began in 1529 as the tower for a new church, but it started sinking from the outset. To compensate, a perpendicular continuation was begun causing the tower to curve, yet because it continued to sink, construction was halted and never resumed. Now, the Oldehove tilts even more than Italy’s Leaning Tower of Pisa. Nonetheless, the citizens are proud of their tower, saying that they feel homesick when it isn’t in sight. Another viewpoint over the province is from Friesland’s tallest church, Saint Boniface, a grandiose Greek revival church built in 1882 by Pierre Cuypers, who is famous for Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum and Centraal Station.
Leeuwarden’s past as a royal city is evidenced by the Princessehof, purchased in 1731 by a Princess of Orange, where she also collected ceramics. Now, the stately home houses a museum dedicated to pottery, ceramics, and tiles, including Dutch Delft and ancient Chinese porcelain. Another royal, Prince Willem Frederik van Nassau, commissioned the Prinsentuin in 1648 as his pleasure garden along the city’s old defenses. Two hundred years later, the now much-frequented English-style park with paths, shade trees, a lake, and a bandshell, was given to the town’s citizens.
Don’t Miss:
Going up the Oldehove crooked tower for the wonderful view from above.
Serendipity:
Finding the unexpected- arriving at the Prinzentuin to an open-air rock concert In progress and staying to listen.
Lunch Tip:
Proefverlof at De Blockhuispoort for delicious locally sourced food.
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D3100 or iPhone 12 Pro.*