Don't miss wonderful Wismar
View over Wismar from St. Georg Church
“Go places… Look at the world with wonder- don’t be tired about it.” — Angela Bassett
The eastern German city of Wismar on the Baltic Sea in Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania has been a notable place since the Middle Ages. That long history has left much behind to wonder over. The coast along this natural harbor in the bay that is further protected by a promontory had already been occupied for a millennium by Germanic and Slavic tribes before the latter probably gave the place its name. They allied with the Saxons to become princes of Mecklenburg in the mid-1100s and went on to officially found the city in 1226.
Soon after, Wismar joined Lübeck and Rostock to establish the Hanseatic League of trading cities, which began as a defensive measure to counter rampant piracy in the Baltic. The city quickly became an important center of trade, principally in herring and beer, and in processing wool. The wealth generated is still visible in the plentiful examples of marvelously detailed and gabled patrician houses and the huge central market square. Here, the focal point is an elaborate wrought-iron fountain that was brought from Holland in 1602 to supply the city’s drinking water. Called Wasserkunst (water art), it served for nearly 300 years. The market square remains a favorite gathering place and features historic buildings that span the ages. The City Hall is Neoclassical, whereas the brick Alter Schwede (Old Swede), with its staircase-shaped gable dates to 1380 and refers to Wismar’s centuries under Swedish rule.
Hanseatic brick Gothic architecture is everywhere because Wismar’s wealth could support brick manufacture after a large fire decimated the town in 1267. Building the three stunning, massive churches that each initially anchored a settlement before they were combined into one town required many millions of bricks. The Marienkirche (St. Mary’s), the oldest, was damaged beyond repair in WWII, so only the tower remains. The 14th-century Nikolai Church is a brick Gothic masterpiece, and the newest St. Georg now serves multiple purposes, such as concert and event venue, and has a rooftop that provides a spectacular view over the city and ocean.
By the late 1800s, Wismar was an industrial powerhouse producing iron and steel, asphalt, paper, and machinery. Aided by the deep port, it exported grain, oilseeds, and butter and in turn, imported coal and timber. Shipbuilding and repair boomed during the GDR era; even today, Germany’s largest drydock is located in the commercial harbor. Wismar now has four side-by-side harbors, and at the original harbor, just beyond the ancient city gate called Wassertor (Water Gate), maritime flair lives on in the weekend fish market and the opportunity to get out on the water. Nearby, The Grube (mill stream) flows under a half-timbered house into the harbor at Lohberg, a charming square known for eateries, live music, and Wismar’s only surviving Hanseatic era Brauhaus (brewery).
For weekend relaxation, residents drive 30 minutes through the countryside and over a bridge to the idyllic island of Poel. Kirchdorf, the main town and sailing harbor, is also reachable in 1 hour by boat from Wismar’s Old Harbor. Bicycle rentals make circumnavigating the island a joy. Twenty-three kilometers (14 miles) of flat paths lead along salt marshes and sea to the lighthouse in Timmendorf and to many fine, sandy west coast beaches.
Don’t Miss:
Taking a harbor cruise from Wismar’s Old Harbor, which departs several times daily.
Serendipity:
Locals along the way- meeting a teen coming out of a side street cottage to ask for directions to a bicycle rental shop on the island of Poel.
Lunch Tip:
Reuterhaus on the Market Square for excellent Baltic fish soup.
Bedtime:
Stadthotel Stern for old world style in the historic city on the pedestrian street.
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D3100 or iPhone 12 Pro.*