Don't leave Bergen unvisited
Sailing into Bergen harbor
“…a place unvisited is like unrequited love. A dull ache that… just won’t leave you in peace.” — Eric Weiner
Norway’s second city, Bergen, is best approached from the water for a dramatic arrival. The city is the daily departure and arrival port for the Hurtigruten ships that ply the long Norwegian west coast all the way to Kirkenes on the Russian border. Therefore, many visitors regard Bergen as a jumping-off point, leaving this fascinating city unvisited.
According to tradition, the city was founded in 1070 by King Olav Kyrre and named Bjørgvin, meaning “the green meadow among the mountains”. Though trading from the shores of the fjord probably began in the early 1000s, Bergen’s old Hanseatic wharf is the site of the first buildings in the city. The Hanseatic League established an office there in 1350 acquiring ownership of Bryggen (The Dock) to control the trade in stockfish, or salt cod, throughout Europe. The original wooden structures were ravaged by fire several times over the centuries, yet the colorful commercial buildings have been rebuilt, as they were before the last great fire of 1702, using original methods and plans. Narrow allies separate the two- and three-story buildings with small stone stock rooms that protected valuable wares from fire, while exterior staircases connect them. Nowadays, the buildings house crafters and artists’ workshops as well as the Hanseatic Museum and Schøstuene, where German tradesmen lived and worked.
At the opposite side of the fjord, Bergen’s Fish Market, dating back to the 1200s, hawks more than an amazing array of fish. Local farm produce and flowers are also available in the open-air setting. This is a wonderful place to find a table at one of the stalls or cafes to sample the local fish delicacies and soak up the maritime atmosphere.
If it rains, as it does an average of 231 days a year in Bergen, several museums offer compelling exhibits as well as shelter from the weather. Troldhagen museum is located in the beautiful former home of Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg, and KODE has four galleries around town, each featuring a different art era, such as paintings by Edvard Munch and Pablo Picasso. Bergenhus Fortress, in the city center on the fjord, dates from the 1200s to the early 1500s, and is one of Norway’s oldest and best-preserved fortifications. Haakon’s Hall, a medieval royal hall and residence, Rosenkrantz Tower, and a dungeon are open to the public, and the grounds host outdoor concerts and festivals, even though the military is still in residence.
Bergen is surrounded by mountains, so good weather calls for a funicular ride up to Mount Fløyen where an overlook terrace affords stunning views across the city and the surrounding fjords. From here, numerous hiking routes begin, longer or shorter distances, and for varying levels of experience. They lead through woodland, around lakes, and as far as 15 km (9.3 miles) to Mount Ulriken, Bergen’s highest point. A cable car takes 5 minutes down to the express bus stop back to the port. For Norwegians, getting out on the water on nice days is a natural tendency, and for visitors, fjord tours leaving from the Fish Market dock range from three hours near Bergen to whole-day trips.
Don’t Miss:
A ride on the Fløybanen funicular from the city center up to Mount Fløyen.
Serendipity:
Needed rest stop- happening upon Bergen’s Engen park, which is close to the harbor, and finding an inviting bench near the ornate bandstand and lush flower borders.
Lunch Tip:
26 North Restaurant for locally sourced Norwegian specialties.
Bedtime:
Hotel Havnekontoret, located in a beautiful Baroque revival building between Bryggen and Bergenhus on the fjord.
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D3100 or iPhone 12 Pro.*