De-stress in Elegant Schwerin
Schwerin Castle viewed over the Burgsee lake
“Taking stress on your travels is too much baggage.” – Melinda Graper
Known within Germany as the city of seven lakes and fine arts, Schwerin is elegant at first glance. As the residence of the House of Mecklenburg, it has been a capital city since 1379 and it is the current capital of Mecklenburg-West Pomerania. First mentioned in 1018 as Zuarina, the name is of Slavic origin, derived from “zvěŕ”, meaning wild animal. Henry the Lion, Duke of Saxony and Bavaria, granted city rights in 1164, making Schwerin the oldest city in the region. Schwerin offers a combination of nature and culture to accompany its long, proud history, so it’s easy to de-stress while meandering through narrow historic lanes, marveling at renowned artworks, or taking a leisurely boat ride.
The city’s most notable landmark, the magnificent Schwerin Palace with its grand golden dome, rests on foundations of earlier Slavic and Germanic forts on an island in Lake Schwerin. The location was visibly chosen for both strategic and aesthetic reasons. Transformation from fortress to palace began in the early 1500s, and additions and renovations continued in the Dutch and French Renaissance styles for 300 years. Since 1990, the castle has been the state parliament’s seat, yet a museum highlighting the throne room, ballroom, and private ducal apartments is open to the public.
Formal pleasure gardens surround the castle and the Orangerie, now a café with garden and lake views. Across a bridge, the expansive Baroque Palace Garden encompasses lush flower borders along bench-lined paths, alleys of trellised trees, a “floating meadow” and a statue of Grand Duke Friedrich Franz II on horseback admiring his castle. The Old Garden, or parade grounds, opposite the castle across the main bridge toward town, is flanked by a park with a victory monument and distinguished buildings including the City Theater, the Old Palais, and the State Art Museum. The latter houses a remarkable collection of Dutch & Flemish masters as well as German art from medieval and Renaissance masters to the present.
Dating to the town’s founding, the cobbled Markt Platz square is a lively place encircled by pretty buildings from many eras, and crowned by the pink Renaissance revival Rathaus, where the Tuesday market happens rain or shine. Henry the Lion is honored with a modern statue, steps away from where he laid the foundation stone for the Cathedral of St. Mary and St. John in 1172. The Romanesque cathedral was consecrated in 1248, yet shortly after, it was surrounded by a brick Gothic basilica that became a 13th-century pilgrimage site. The climb up the 220 steps provides a breathtaking view of Schwerin’s lake landscape. After the Reformation, the house of Mecklenburg-Schwerin built the Schelfkirche St. Nikolai, a fabulous Baroque building in the nearby Schelfstadt quarter, for its own.
Boats leave from the palace quayside even in the off-season for 1.5-hour tours. They sail by the Zippendorf neighborhood, where villas line the beachfront, the Kaninchenwerder island nature reserve, and through a canal to the Heidensee where boatsheds and summer homes hug the shoreline. A Tourist Information bicycle map suggests a cycle tour from the castle gardens along the Fauler See to the zoo and beyond to the early 1960s GDR-built TV tower. Atop the 136.5 m (448 ft) tower, the observation deck and restaurant provide a relaxing sunset view of the lakes.
Don’t Miss:
Visiting the splendid castle and exquisite gardens.
Serendipity:
Finding the unexpected- arriving at the hotel to find that the name “Weinhaus” is not just historic- it has been a wine dealership since before 1751.
Lunch Tip:
Müllers a few steps off the Market Square for excellent organic and vegetarian dishes.
Bedtime:
Hotel Weinhaus Uhle, a family-owned hotel in a stunning building a few steps from Market Square.
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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D5600 or iPhone 14 Pro.*