“…what is beautiful is a joy for all seasons…” — Oscar Wilde

A vast majority of travelers to Paris visit in the springtime, as the old song “I love Paris in the springtime” attests. Yet the city is a joy in the winter. Especially the Left Bank feels uncrowded, frequented largely by residents, and therefore quiet and leisurely. It includes the Latin Quarter and boasts numerous cultural and historical highlights. There are also alluring attractions a little further afield, though easily reachable by public transport via the Metro and RER.

On the eastern edge of town, one such attraction is the suburb of Vincennes with its notable castle, Château de Vincennes, begun as a Capetian manor in the late 12th century. Vincennes became the seat of French royal power at strategic land and river routes during the reign of Louis IX, known as Saint Louis. With the later addition of fortifications, a main tower, and the Sainte-Chapelle, it even for a time replaced the Palais de la Cité on the Seine island. After Versailles was built, it was used as a porcelain factory, military school, and feared prison.

Set in the 5th arrondissement near the Sorbonne University, the Panteon was dedicated to Geneviève, the patron saint of Paris in 1744. After the Revolution, the massive building was converted into a burial place of national heroes including Voltaire, Emile Zola, Victor Hugo, and Marie Curie, among others. Nearby, the Musée de Cluny is Paris’s Museum of the Middle Ages. Located in the Abbey of Cluny, dated to AD 909, the Hôtel, or private townhouse of the Cluny abbots was in turn built within the Roman baths of Lutetia, which makes for a fascinating walk through the premises. The rooms, whether built of Roman limestone masonry, like the cold bath “frigidarium”, or medieval cut stone, are filled with treasures such as Roman columns, medieval statues and paintings, vibrantly-colored 12th-century enamel Limoges religious objects, tapestries, and illuminated manuscripts.

The Luxembourg Gardens, a highlight of the Left Bank in the 6th arrondissement, is a pleasure to stroll through in the off-season because it feels truly spacious. Even on weekend mornings, when neighborhood residents of all ages are playing and exercising, the garden gives off a peaceful vibe. From the garden exit near the museum, taking detours through side streets off the Left Bank’s boulevards pays off. Discovering the district’s richness in creative and independent shops and the overabundance of cafés frequented by locals feels quintessentially Parisian.

Further west, in the 7th arrondissement, past the Hôtel des Invalides, walking through the Champs de Mars leads to the Eiffel Tower. From there, weather permitting, a winter cruise is an ideal way to admire Notre Dame and other popular Paris monuments from a distance. Instead of the famous cathedral, the stained-glass windows of Sainte-Chapelle de Paris offer a breathtaking alternative. Next door, the Conciergerie is all that remains of the oldest palace of the French Kings, Palais de la Cité. One worthwhile Right Bank attraction, the Arc de Triomphe observation deck, affords a joyful view back to the Left Bank.

Don’t Miss:

Taking a walk through the Luxembourg Gardens, especially in the off-season, when the experience becomes magical.

Serendipity:

Finding the unexpected- Wandering the sides streets of the Left Bank and finding a small square with an ancient chapel and a lovely little public garden for a rest.

Lunch Tip:

Bateaux Parisiens leaving from the Port de la Bourdonnais at the foot of the Eiffel Tower, has great food and cruises past Paris’ highlights to the National Library is the east and the Île aux Cygnes in the west.

Bedtime:

Grand Hôtel Saint Michel on the Left Bank with a view of the dome of the Sorbonne and a 5-minute walk to Luxembourg Gardens.

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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D5600 or iPhone 14 Pro.*