“… with every end of the world, there is a new world…” – Alex Hirsch

Nestled on the Namibian Atlantic Coast a four-hour drive from Windhoek seemingly at the end of the world, Swakopmund was founded in 1892 as a strategic port for German South West Africa. A captivating blend of German colonial architecture and a vibrant African atmosphere, this small town of 25,000 residents embodies a unique fusion of cultures, and a rich history, all astonishingly situated in a true desert, the vast Namib, the world’s oldest. Yet, the cold Benguela Current flowing from the south makes the climate moderate enough for Namibians to consider Swakopmund their only real holiday resort, and the vibe is unmistakably beachy. The name means the mouth of Swakop in German, referring to the large yet ephemeral Swakop River. The Herero people called it ‘place of the seashells’.

Though unused to receiving foreign visitors, the mix of languages heard in town ranges from English to Afrikaans and German, and many streets retain their colonial name. The palm-lined avenues, old buildings, and well-kept gardens give Swakop (as the locals call it) a unique atmosphere, and make it an enchanting place to spend a few days. The historical town center reveals remnants of its colonial past in the many well-preserved buildings that showcase a distinct German influence. Examples include the Woermannhaus Historical Landmark, erected in 1894 as offices for a German shipping company, now serving as a public library and art center, and the Neo-Baroque Hohenzollernhaus, originally a hotel, now a condominium.

Unlike much of Namibia, Swakopmund is accustomed to seasonal visitors so there is ample choice of eateries and much to explore. The fusion of tastes in the cafes and restaurants blends traditional African and freshly caught fish with German cakes and pastries. Enticing specialty shops offer a range from jewelry made of local gold and aquamarines to tropical linens; traditional Namibian textiles or handmade tribal crafts can be found in numerous galleries or community markets.

Soaring next to the fortress-like State House, the lighthouse was built in 1902 and is visible from everywhere in town and 33 km (19 mi) out to sea as a warning to ships of the treacherous Skeleton Coast. In the adjacent park, a German Marine Memorial commemorates imperial soldiers who fought against indigenous Namibians in the Herero Wars of 1904-8 and serves as a reminder of unresolved colonial legacies. Between the lighthouse and beach, The Museum Swakopmund, a private history and natural history museum, is worth a visit. At the coast lies the famous jetty, whose construction began in 1902 by railway engineers. The Trans-Namib Railway line from the capital still exists but trains no longer run.

Swakopmund has recently developed a name as an adventure sports center, offering dune biking, sandboarding, or free-fall parachuting near town. Yet 35 km (22 mi) south, the most mesmerizing landscapes begin. In Walvis Bay, now the main port, large flamingo colonies visit the lagoon, and salt is won through the evaporation of seawater in vast flats of exquisite, sparkling pink and purple. In the Dorob National Park on the way to Sandwich Harbor, high dunes abut the deep blue Atlantic, seals lie in solitude on the beach and groups of oryx and springbok graze on the sparse vegetation, including the thorny, flowering !Nara plant.

Don’t Miss:

A jeep tour past flamingo colonies and pink salt pans, through the dunes and along the Atlantic Ocean.

Serendipity:

Locals along the way- when an affable driver turns a four-hour ride into a fascinating onsight into Namibian culture.

Lunch Tip:

Jetty 1905 Restaurant, at the end of the pier, for the fish and the unsurpassed views.

Dinner Tip:

The Tug, in an old tugboat, for excellent fish dishes on the ocean at the jetty’s start.

Bedtime:

The very charming Fritz Manor, a few blocks from the ocean, part of Fancy Fritz, an independently owned and lovingly operated B&B.

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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D5600 or iPhone 14 Pro.*