“You can’t ignore the importance of being unique, remarkable…” – Pooja Agnihotri

As the fourth largest Dutch city, Utrecht, with a largely car-free city center, is an alluring, relaxed alternative to Amsterdam. Yet this is a lively place to visit owing to the many Utrecht University students. Its central location made Utrecht The Netherlands’ most important city until Amsterdam surpassed it during the Dutch Golden Age. Utrecht’s medieval core is divided into five sections, each with its own atmosphere amidst charming squares and side streets. The Vredenburg Quarter transitions from the ultramodern central station and Hoog Catharijne mall into the medieval bustling Cathedral (Dom) and City Hall Quarters, while the University Quarter feels decidedly laid-back, and the Museum Quarter is quietly peaceful.

Founded when the Romans built a fortification on the Kromme Rijn, the Rhein River’s crooked arm, in 47AD, the name Utrecht derives from Latin for crossing and Old Dutch for downriver. After the Romans withdrew, the Franks built a church in the fort that the Frisians quickly destroyed. After 695, the Anglo-Saxon monk Willibrord rebuilt the church which became his bishop's residence as he converted the Netherlands to Christianity. In 1122 Holy Roman Emperor Henry V granted Utrecht city rights, allowing the still-existing protective moat to be dug. In Utrecht’s main Domplein Square, St. Martin Cathedral (Domkerk) was partly destroyed and separated from its bell tower by a 1647 tornado, and the two were never reunited. The free-standing tower is The Netherlands’ oldest, begun in 1321, and highest at 112 meters (367 feet). A view all the way to Amsterdam is up the 465 steps, while a headlamp-included tour of “Domunder” reveals archeological ruins from Roman times.

When the main river flow moved southward, the old riverbed through town became canalized as Oudegracht (Old Canal). During the Middle Ages, storage facilities were built along the wharves of this old Rhein branch as an inner-city harbor. On top, the main street, including houses, was constructed. The wharves and cellars are accessible from a platform at water level with stairways descending from the street to form a 7 km (4.3 miles) long structure that is unique even in the Netherlands. Nowadays, the ancient warehouses, caves, and cellars house cafes, cocktail bars, artists’ studios, and even some apartments, making for a relaxing space any time of day.

Fun options for getting on the water abound. Boat tours along Oudegracht and the moat sail frequently; for active relaxation, hire a self-paddle boat, kayak, canoe, SUP board, or water cycle. Or visit Utrecht’s lovely city gardens: St. Mary’s courtyard, the remnant of an herbal cloister garden; the hidden oasis Oude Hortus, formerly the university’s botanical gardens; the often-missed St. Martin’s Cathedral courtyard garden. The large Saturday flower market at Janskerkhof square is a must since flowers are synonymous with The Netherlands.

When the city walls came down in 1830, parks and shady walking paths remained along the banks of the former moat. Park Lepelenburg is a popular gathering spot for families and friends to picnic or play games. Museums are plentiful, too; the Centraal Museum showcases Utrecht’s art and design history; the Museum Speelklok of mechanical organs is surprisingly fun; and architecture fans will love the Rietveld- Schröderhuis which exemplifies the “De Stijl” modern movement.

Don’t Miss:

Going up the “Dom” tower to see the city and country from above.

Serendipity:

Locals along the way- Meeting grandparents and their grandkids on a boat ride and getting some hot insider tips for gardens to visit. 

Lunch Tip:

De Rechtbank, with tranquil terrace seating for excellent soups, risotto, and more.

Bedtime:

The elegant Hotel Karel V in a historic building on the Catharijnesingel moat in the city center.

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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D3100 or iPhone 12 Pro.*