“I love how it feels to unwind by the ocean.” – Miranda Rae Mayo

Sweden’s west coast is dotted with several thousand small islands that stretch almost 300 km (185 miles) from the southern Gothenburg archipelago northward to the border with Norway. Some of the islands are connected to the mainland or each other by bridges, while others are only accessible by ferry. One of these islands, Marstrand, at the archipelago’s western edge where the open sea begins, combines laid-back vibes and stunning coastal views with a fascinating history dating back to the Middle Ages.

Despite the small population, Marstrand is a “city” spread over two islands- Koön and Marstrandsön. Just 47km (29 miles) from Gothenburg, the city’s public transit makes its last bus stop over a mainland bridge on Köön. From there, it’s a quick 5-minute ferry ride to car-free Marstrand. Sailing harbors on both sides of the strait accommodate island-hopping summer visitors who arrive by private boat to kick back and unwind or to take part in prestigious sailing races. Before Mid-summer’s Eve and again in autumn, this is a tranquil spot.

Founded by Norwegian King Håkon Håkonsson, Marstrand has held city privileges since 1200. Its ideal location at the outer edge of the archipelago, along with the often-ice-free harbor, made Marstrand a major fishing center for centuries, best known for herring. During the 16th century, herring oil was exported to light the streetlamps of major European cities like Paris. This brought employment opportunities and great wealth, as well as a hundred taverns and immorality until the herring stopped running.

After one of the Scandinavian wars ended in 1658, Marstrand became Swedish, and Carlsten Fortress was built by war prisoners atop the island. Highlights here are the captivating panorama views from the lookout tower and the dark, scary dungeons, which only one-fifth of all prisoners survived. A century later, the return of the herring allowed the city to establish itself as an independent free port.

The present town can only be described as very pretty. Countless ornately decorated, beautifully maintained Victorian-style houses sit one next to the other around the harbor-front park and along the narrow, cobbled streets. These date from the mid-19th century when Marstrand became renowned as a seaside health resort, with the accompanying social life, for the upper classes. The Grand Hotel, former royal residences, bathhouses, and several protected saltwater swimming spots also remain from that era. Marstrand’s whitewashed stone church near the main square dates to around 1300, though it replaced a yet-older wooden church. Next to the sailboat harbor, the old southern fortress, Strandverket, has been repurposed to host art and photography exhibitions, lectures, and concerts, some outdoors in the ancient courtyard.

In contrast to the filigreed town, most of the island is wild with rocky cliffs and a small but dense forest. Well-marked hiking paths cross the forest, revealing ponds, caves, and a sacrificial stone with a grim story. The longest path circumnavigates the entire island and leads to Skallens lighthouse, where the stunning view westward over the ocean is best saved for sunset.

Don’t Miss:

The lovely view over the town, islands, and ocean from the Carlsten Fortress.

Serendipity:

Finding the unexpected: Finding a lonely yet protected swimming spot outside of town along the outer path for a solitary evening swim.

Lunch Tip:

Arnell På Kajen for superb fish soup, and Bergs Bakery next door for a pastry or saffron bun.

Bedtime:

Hotel Nautic, located one block from the ocean promenade, is casual, beachy, and bright.

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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D3100 or iPhone 12 Pro.*