“Adventure is worthwhile in itself.” – Amelia Earhart

West of Athens in the Argolis region of the Peloponnese lies the pretty coastal town of Nafplio. The lower Old Town has paved pedestrian streets lined with well-preserved, bougainvillea-adorned mansions housing picturesque cafés and lovely shops. Many stairways connect to the upper Old Town’s narrow cobblestone alleyways where visitors get a glimpse of how life is lived here by staying in small, intimate hotels. Even more steps lead to the fortresses. There are so many steps and hidden spots that walking around Nafplio is nothing less than a worthwhile adventure.

According to mythology, the town was founded by the son of Poseidon, the Greek god of the seas. Its history goes back to the bronze age when Nafpilo was already a significant port whose strategic position is highlighted by the fact that no less than three fortresses protected it. Though the town declined during Roman times, it flourished again in the Byzantine era and after, when others left their cultural and architectural marks in ancient Frankish fortresses, Ottoman castles, baths and fountains, and Venetian buildings. Finally, from 1823-34, Nafplio was shortly the capital of the newly born Greek state.

Adventure begins with a stroll through a maze of small streets to see the Old Town’s stunning architecture, hidden squares, and little churches. The heart is the main Italianate Syntagma Square encircled by cafés, perfect for watching the world go by and for admiring important buildings. These include the first Greek parliament and the Trianon theater, both surprisingly in former Turkish mosques. Pedestrian Vas Konstantinos Street, off the square, is called “megalos dromos” (great road) by the locals. Around the corner at another square, the Olive Tree of Nafplio, dedicated to the town’s patron saint Anastasios, stands where he was martyred outside the Panagia, Holy Church of the Nativity.

Across town, the Church of St. George in the eponymous Square contains beautiful frescos from Venetian times. Further on, a large stone gate, with a drawbridge over a moat that closed at sunset, is Nafplio’s only land entrance, The Venetian Land Gate, topped with the winged Lion of St. Mark. Nearby, a Farmer’s Market is held Wednesdays and Saturdays from 7:00-2:30. From the Land Gate, the climb to Palamidi fortress begins.

Perched predominantly over town on the eastern hilltop, Venetian-built Palamidi sits 216 meters (710 feet) above sea level. The 999 steps lead through a well-preserved baroque-style archway to stunning views. Yet, Acronafplia fortress and castle, atop the rocky outcropping just above the upper Old Town, is more interesting and not as high. Steps pass St. Spyridon Church and small B&Bs before heading through the Sea Gate to the Bronze Age Acronafplia that once held the whole city within its walls. Spectacular views spread both north to the bay and south to the mountains of Arcadia.

On the waterfront, Arvanitia Promenade stretches 1 km (1.6 miles) between palm trees and the sea to Arvanitia Square and an ocean pool. From there, the Palamidi path winds around the point along oceanside cliffs and through a stone arch to Paralia Arvanitis beach where, in season, there are umbrellas, chairs, changing rooms, and cafes. Always in sight, Nafplio’s landmark, the Venetian Bourtzi Castle, protects the town from an offshore island.

Don’t Miss:

A walk up to Acronafplia castle for the views, and around the point on Palamidi path for a swim.

Serendipity:

Locals along the way- Luckily meeting a lady at Paralia Arvanitis beach who reveals that the changing rooms are also open in the off-season.

Lunch Tip:

The chic Café-Bar in the Hotel Grand Bretagne, located on Filelion Square on the waterfront.

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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D5600 or iPhone 12 Pro.*