“Paradise is where I am.” – Voltaire

In the western Peloponnese, at the south end of Ormos Bay, protected from the Ionian Sea by the island of Sphakteria, lies the historic coastal town of Pylos. Like Nafplio and other Peloponnese towns, Pylos was the scene of bloody naval battles: during the Peloponnesian War in 425 BC, and the Battle of Navarino during the War of Greek Independence in 1827. Modern-day Pylos spreads across the slopes of a hill overlooking the clear blue water of the bay, surrounded by sandy beaches, vineyards, olive groves, and castles. There’s a decidedly peaceful, laid-back village vibe to the place, a paradise-like mix of ancient culture in beautiful natural surroundings.

Confusion over Pylos’ placename began in the Middle Ages. The present name may derive from the Avars who lived there in the 6th to 8th centuries, and the Venetians who corrupted the name of Ton Avarinon castle to Navarino when they arrived in 1209. During their reign, Pylos, known by the Italian name, flourished, becoming a financial center and busy commercial port. Yet it was later that the Franks built Palaiokastro (old castle) on a rocky hill with sheer cliffs on the northern shore of the bay, above the cave of legendary King Nestor of Messina. Later expanded during another Venetian and an Ottoman occupation, it was abandoned when the Turks built Neokastro (new fortress) in 1573 several kilometers away, at the southern edge of the bay, near the entrance to Pylos port. Neokastro, one of Greece’s best-preserved castles, still guards the bay and now houses the Archeological Museum.

In town, the Central Square, also called Three Admirals Square, at the harbor’s edge, is shaded by large plane trees, providing the best spot for a relaxing coffee or glass of local wine. The square is encircled on three sides with cafes and shops, and a monument is dedicated to the foreign admirals whose navies fought the Battle of Navarino in the Greek fight for independence, as the flags of England, France, and Russia testify. Narrow streets, some cobbled, some just steps, lead uphill from the square in several directions. There are sidewalk restaurants and cafés, small B&Bs, and specialty shops for browsing. Visible from town on the hilltop, the distinctive white Pagagia Mirtithiotissa Church with an arched façade, houses an icon with ties to the Battle of Navarino. From there, the view back down to town, harbor, and Sphacteria Island is lovely.

Though beaches abound in the area it’s worth a 10 km (6 mi) taxi ride from Pylos harbor through olive groves area, to Voidokilia Beach. Its shape, a virtually perfect Greek letter Omega, makes this arguably the most beautiful, and since it’s part of a protected area and undeveloped, an enjoyable uncrowded paradise. From a vantage point above the beach, the views of the coastline to the north, and the ruins of Palaiokastro on the hill to the south, are spectacular. Palaiokastro is accessible on foot from the path above the beach for extraordinary views of the Strait of Sykia. Between Voidokilia beach and the main road, the fresh and saltwater Gialova Lagoons offer a free-of-charge opportunity to observe many migrating bird species in spring and fall, as well as flamingos all year round.

Don’t Miss:

Finding paradise at stunning Voidokilia beach with its unique shape, fine white sand, and crystal-clear turquoise water.

Lunch Tip:

The Eagle café at the harborside for excellent salads with bread, and chilled Greek white wine.

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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D5600 or iPhone 12 Pro.*