“In nature, we never see anything isolated, but in connection with something else…”. —Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

The Lofoten Islands are an archipelago located off Norway’s northwestern coast above the Arctic Circle in Nordland County. The remote islands are accessible by several ferries from the mainland, driving a long way around, via the daily Norwegian postal boat “Hurtigruten” that sails from Bergen, or a short flight from Bodø to Svolvær. Known for spectacular showings of the northern lights in winter and for the midnight sun in summer, the beautiful natural surroundings consisting of mountains meeting the sea make for breathtaking views. The name may derive from the Old Norse designation given initially to one of the islands whose shape was compared to that of a lynx foot; it could also refer to the shapes the northern lights make in the sky.

From May 25th until July 17th, the sun is always above the horizon; conversely, the sun never shows itself between December 4th and January 7th. Yet, the climate is less severe than this northern location would suggest because the North Atlantic Current warms the Norwegian Sea. Autumn does bring strong west winds, and snow and sleet do fall in the winter.

For centuries, the archipelago was the center of Norway’s large, winter-based cod fisheries. Atlantic cod is the fish that built Norway, starting with the Vikings, who first traded stockfish some 1000 years ago. Stockfish, or air-dried cod, is still a delicacy in Norway, though today, it is often grilled, baked, or added to pizza as much as it’s eaten as a dried snack. There is more to the local diet than fish, as lamb, local cheeses, and herbs frequently appear on the menu. Other less common treats include Lofoten seaweed made into chips and spices and yellow-pink cloudberries.

This archipelago with only two towns is often described as tranquil or idyllic. Yet the largest town and administrative center with some 4700 residents, Svolvær (Old Norse meaning chilly fishing village), has a city classification. Located on the northernmost island of Austvågøya, it is home to shops, museums, restaurants, and modern hotels. Like all around the islands, Svolvær has numerous traditional red wooden “rorbu” accommodations lining the coastal rocks, which are charming, modernized Norwegian fishermen’s cottages. There is also a pretty town square with a cozy vibe where a market takes place. Indoor activities include the new microbrewery Lofotpils and a floating sauna with harbor views across a short bridge from town.

In and beyond the towns, the Loftoten plays host to a vibrant art scene. Svolvær has the North Norwegian Art Center, and in Henningsvær, the archipelago’s hippest city, the KaviarFactory is a popular venue for contemporary art; some art comes directly from nature’s gifts, like the sea urchin lamps in the Lofotlys shop. Almost every village has a gallery or an artisan in a workshop experimenting with the unique light and colors that the Lofoten inspires, specifically the white sand, turquoise water, and changing daylight.

The grandiose nature provides endless open-air activities: hiking along pristine beaches or up high paths; mountaineering and rock climbing, centered in Henningsvær, on ridges, summits, and glaciers up to 1200m (3900 feet); wildlife safaris that include whale (Orca) watching in autumn and winter; surfing in Unstad; kayaking or fishing in Svolvær; bird watching on every island to observe sea eagles, cormorants, oystercatchers, and arctic terns.

Don’t Miss:

Driving along the coastal road from Ramberg on Flakstadøya to Reine on Moskenesøya.

Serendipity:

Finding the unexpected- Seeing the occasional elk in town.

Lunch Tip:

Børsen for excellent freshly made local dishes, including stockfish, in an old warehouse on the Svolvær harbor front.

Bedtime:

Hurtigruten, Norway’s 130-year-old public steamship company, which takes cargo and passengers on either their northbound or southbound voyages.

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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D5600 or iPhone 14 Pro.*