“It’s the edges of the maps that fascinate…” David Mitchell

Cape Agulhas is a rocky headland in Western Cape, South Africa 105 km (170 miles) southeast of Cape Town. Though located along the famous Garden Route, it is most often passed over for more famous attractions. Erroneously, the Cape of Good Hope was long regarded as the southernmost point of Africa, but that honor actually belongs to Cape Agulhas. This marks the geographic southern tip of the African continent and the dividing line between the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. The headland was first rounded by Portuguese navigators in the 1480s who named it Cabo das Agulhas or Cape of the Needles because only here did their compass needles indicate magnetic north and true north to be virtually identical.

The climate in this region is temperate year-round, but the sea is historically known as a major hazard on the traditional clipper route; some 150 ships have sunk here in the last 100 years, not to mention during previous centuries when no other trading route existed between Europe and the Orient. Strong winds and the meeting of the warm Agulhas current with the cold Antarctic current cause frequent winter storms and huge waves. The lighthouse was built in 1848, as the second in South Africa, to warn ships away from the rocky coast. Yet, the bow of a Japanese tuna boat, grounded while fishing the shallow waters of the Agulhas Bank, remains dramatically stranded just offshore.

The spectacular gradually curving coastline of rocky as well as sandy beaches is part of the Agulhas National Park that stretches 56 km (35 miles) along the coastal plain. Although this is one of South Africa’s smallest national parks, it boasts 2,000 native plant species including the indigenous Fynbos plants that cover the dunes that are called Strandveld. The wetlands provide refuge to many varieties of birds, making bird watching one of the most popular pastimes of park visitors. There are also numerous hiking trails throughout the park, which is bordered by warm tidal pools that allow for a leisurely dip. Between November and January, sightings of southern right whales are common from the beaches just at the base of the lighthouse or the neighboring uncrowded Struisbaai beach. At Struisbaii, surfers also ply the waves, and families swim, while whale-watching expeditions and saltwater fishing charters leave from the adjoining harbor.

L’Agulhas is also a coastal village and holiday resort frequented largely by South Africans. It boasts a small fishing harbor with a couple of rustic indoor/outdoor fish restaurants that proudly serve the fresh catch of the day. A few local craft shops, along with the museum and small restaurant now housed in South Africa’s second-oldest working lighthouse, round out the village offerings. The stunning views over the ocean, national park, and coastline are worth climbing the 71 steps to the lighthouse observation deck. Several wineries within a short drive from Cape Agulhas provide tours and tastings to complete this diverse South African experience.

Don’t Miss:

The expansive view over the ocean and national park from the Agulhas Lighthouse.

Lunch Tip:

Struisbaai Sea Shack for the catch of the day right off the boat.

Bedtime:

Lovely Arniston Spa Hotel, 27 km (17 miles) east of Agulhas on a gently sloping beach.

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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D3100 or iPhone 8.*