“Adventure is a path. Real adventure…self-motivated…forces you to have firsthand encounters with the world. – Mark Jenkins

At first glance, Rødvig resembles a pleasant little fishing village situated at the end of white chalk cliffs exposed by retreating glaciers during the end of the last ice age. Located 75 km (47 mi) south of Copenhagen on the island of Zealand, the settlement began as a shipping location for the nearby inland town of Store Heddinge. It grew from a hamlet of fishermen’s cottages with a warehouse, customs house, and an inn into one of the largest fishing harbors in the region. A pleasure boat harbor added in the late 20th century has made Rødvig a holiday spot for Danes attracted by sandy beaches and numerous outdoor activities in an area of dramatic natural and cultural history.

The Cliffs of Stevns is a UNESCO World Heritage site of white chalk cliffs starting 6 km (9 mi) north of Rødvig, stretching 17km (11 mi) along the coast and rising 40m (130 ft). At 62-72 million years old, the cliffs’ geological importance is virtually unparalleled. As one of the best exposed Creaceous-Tertiary boundaries in the world, it contains a large band of iridium rock, countless fossils, and the “Fish Clay” layer, which holds traces of an asteroid that hit the earth 65m years ago.

Stevns Cliff footpath or Trampesti winds along the ocean and through fields for 8 km (5 mi) from Rødvig to the lighthouse. The path is rich with natural and cultural experiences. Stevns Fortress Cold War Museum provides guided tours of the 1.6 km (1 mi) underground systems of tunnels, including living and command quarters, a hospital, chapel, cannons, and ammunition depot. Built in 1953, it served as a defense for Denmark and NATO’s eastern frontline during the Cold War. Standing dramatically at the cliff’s edge, the Gothic-style limestone Højerup Church dates to the 1200s. A 1928 landslide caused the chancel to fall onto the shore below, and the nearby steps down provide a breathtaking view back. Further on, the first Stevns Lighthouse was built into the sea-facing wall of the lighthouse keeper’s cottage in 1818. A new 27m (89 ft) tall lighthouse, which serves today, was built of limestone 60 years later to be visible from further out in the Baltic Sea. A climb up the tower provides a stunning panorama of the coast and sea.

Fourteen kilometers (9 mi) north of Rødvig on a high field, sits Gjorslev Slot, a cruciform medieval castle begun in 1396 by the Bishop of Roskilde, Peder Jensen Lodehat, an adviser and friend (or more) to Queen Margaret I. Built of limestone from the cliffs and surrounded by a moat, it is one of the best preserved secular Gothic buildings in Denmark. For over 600 years, this agricultural estate has played important roles in Danish history, from a negotiation site to avoid war with the Hanseatic League to royal expropriation during the Reformation through numerous ownership changes. Now, private owners open for tours several times monthly.

Also out of town, the Faxe Limestone Quarry and Geomuseum, where limestone has been won for building material for over 900 years, remains an active working site. Yet, the unique nature area can be explored on foot any time of day. The 63-million-year-old exposed remains of the world’s oldest deep water coral reefs are popular among fossil hunters who take home fossilized crab, snail or clam shells.

Don’t Miss:

Seeing old Højerup Church almost hanging off the cliff.

Serendipity:

Locals along the way- asking at the lighthouse for a bus back to town and getting a ride from a lovely, chatty local.

Lunch Tip:

Rødvig Central for tasty sandwiches and salads or tapas with a harbor view.

Bedtime:

Rødvig Kro Badehotel, an old-world Danish beach hotel with a relaxing atmosphere and excellent food.

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*All photographs are mine, taken with my Nikon D5600 or iPhone 14 Pro.*